23 Dec - Versailles and the Tower Again

Posted on December 23, 2008

I woke early on the 23rd and managed to grab breakfast again.  I grabbed the metro out to Versailles, helping two lost Chinese students on the way. I never mentioned I was going to Versailles, too and ended up running into them often at the Chateau. It was no big deal but any sense of familiarity gives you a sense of peace that helps you settle.

Versailles…it, like so many things here is grand on a scale unimaginable. Not only physically but historically as well. It has a presence that is palpable and when I think about it deeply it’s almost too much to consider. This is a place where incredible things took place, with history beyond my imaginable time. I sat in vast gardens and thought of books I’d read about the period, and wondered about lives, loves and losses, ghosts that had moved over those marble floors, up those time-worn steps. Who’s run through the gardens, lost in the spring, who fell in love and was proposed to in the shade of the maze? I suppose that’s the case with all places in history, but something about Versailles simply lends to the idea. The vast, seemingly endless gardens and grounds hold potential in every sunlit corner and night-darkened shadow. I could imagine secret duels here, conversations in the night about insurrection and the balance of power. Versailles as a place has a history dating back to 1038, with the first royal structures built in the early 1600s for hunting in the vast forests. It’s hard to contemplate all that’s occurred in a place with nearly a thousand years of history. But that could be said for Paris as well, with twice that.

After Versailles I got back to Paris late and headed for the Eiffel Tower again. The day had cleared into a beautiful blue and I couldn’t wait to see the city from the top. It was cold and a little windy but the view…worth every degree of chill. I saw streets lined with Christmas lights, cars flowing across bridges galore and a reflected life in the Rive Seine. I grabbed hot chocolate at the top this time and it was perfect. I’ve started to feel more confident with speaking French but it’s hit or miss. People speak quickly but most are helpful and just want to get the communication across. I try, they try…eventually hot chocolate is purchased.

Gypsies and learning the secrets of the locals… One of the things I absolutely wanted to do was blend. I realized when I got here that I already dress like pretty much everyone else. Black or dark clothes, no tennis shoes, and the standard cashmere black coat. I carry my camera bag over my shoulder like a backpack so that’s kind of a gieve away…but now I know a few things. Day one gypsies were on me like everyone else. They play as Bosnian refugees, or stranded Albanian travelers…or whatever the story is. But they all carry photocopies of the same hand-written note explaining the circumstance. They always ask if you speak English then turn on the sad charm and give you the old, worn note. If you refuse to give them money, they’ll follow you for a short while begging and eventually get annoyed and yell things like “Well, Merry Christmas to you then!” I was almost annoyed at first but there’s something about it all that just amuses me. In a sense, they’re like performers, working the crowd and doing their job. They can be irritating but I’ve learned to deal. And blend. I noticed locals almost always have earphones in. I thought it was to ignore everyone (and it is, somewhat) but it also keeps them warm by blocking the cold wind out of their ears. It also has the fortunate side effect of not hearing people emphatically say “Speaky English???” Trick two is the muttered, “I’m very busy and really don’t have time because I live in Paris and have to work 27 hours a day to afford to live here, ‘Non’” as you keep moving and make less than 100th of a second of eye contact. This works REALLY well. They’re busy, you’re busy…everybody’s happy. When I’m on my way someplace, I walk quickly and purposefully, (though I’ll stop and take a picture here and there), hands in my coat pockets, ear phones in, purposeful, “I wish I was at home drinking wine” look on my face. This works so well that I get totally busted because French people talk to me when we stop moving and occasionally, I have no idea what they said. About 80% of the time I’ve gotten away with nodding, and paying attention to body language. I’m honestly trying, though.

I do want to say that there are genuine people here in need, like everywhere who aren’t swindling. If you come, you’ll be able to tell them from the players. They honestly look like they’re in need. The difference is huge.

I was a Popsicle after the Tower and headed back for a good night’s rest. I’m trying not to wear myself out and just enjoy being here. So far, so good. I can’t even express how much I love Paris.